Plain Jane

It’s UFO time! (UnFinished Object) I started this shirt almost a year and a half ago! I know this solely on the date that I started this post. I tend to write as I sew. This comes in handy in case I make adjustments to a pattern as I go because I won’t remember them as I go.

Let’s step back in time to the beginning of 2016…

This blue, kinda denim looking fabric came from my mom’s stash that she gave to me.  Yay free fabric!  I used my oldie but a goodie B5526.  I have the number memorized now.  I used to have to look it up. Ha!  This time I used a different version of the shirt that didn’t include the princess seams.  I plan on adding a partial pplacket to the shirt instead of a full button down. The change to cutting it out was to cut the front on the fold and not include the extra fabric for the button placket.  Well you shouldn’t, unlike what I did… But we’ll get to that disaster in a minute.

Everything was going great with sewing this shirt up.  Even found a great tutorial on how to create a cute little placket for the front from MellySews.  I made mine 11″.  Everything was constructed and ready to come together. Collar, sleeves, cuffs. Woo-hoo!  Moving along at full steam.  I started working on the collar.  That’s when things went wrong and I had to walk away.

Remember where I mentioned earlier that you should not include the extra fabric for the button placket.  Well I included some of it because I thought that it would make it a bit more roomy.  The shirt is not supposed to be fitted.  In adding that extra bit of fabric, I made the collar stand and collar not long enough.  Well shit…

Flash forward to now. Obviously I was more annoyed with this than I realized. Annoyed so much that I left this shirt in the bottom of a pile of fabric to be forgotten forever. When you clean your fabric stash it’s amazing the things you find! Yes, I hid it there. I think I meant for my future self to never find it.

Since I have found it, I needed to figure out what to do with this extra fabric I just had to add. I figured I needed to get rid of 1″ off each side of the placket. The cute placket I made, I decided I hated. I ripped it off. Totally ripped apart the cuffs I sewed to make the placket pieces. I cut out the extra fabric from the neck and tapered down to the bottom of the placket, which cut out two triangles of fabric. I added the placket that I know the best. I’ve used it on the other two popovers I’ve made (one, two).


I added the collar, which I decided to use only the stand. Yup, just like the other two.


Since I used the fabric for the cuffs on my placket, I needed to figure out something different for the sleeves. I always roll up my sleeves so it’s not necessary to have all that length. I kept just enough to roll the sleeves once or twice plus enough to make a “cuff”.


As I mentioned before, this is the third time making this exact shirt but three different sleeve lengths. Yeah for repeats!


Seriuosly! Same shirt! Curved hem at the bottom, roomy, partial placket and mandarin collar.


The length is awesome because it covers enough of my bottom standing and sitting. I freaking love these shirts. I could have a closet full of these. Oh, and B5526 is my favorite shirt pattern.


This version is a little plain compared to my other two and rather plain for me. I always prefer prints. It’s nice to change things up every once in a while right? But not too much, to stay on the safe side.

All in the Cards

I can’t stop remaking patterns this year. I’ve made the Toaster Sweater from Sew House 7 three times (one, two, three) and now I’m on my second Saunio Cardigan by Named. Last time I made the pattern, I whined about the shoulder seam being too far down my little bony shoulder. The other annoyance was how far away the sweater sits away from my neck.

When cutting the pattern I added 1″ to the neckline. I shortened the shoulder piece so it wouldn’t droop down my shoulder. I had to extend the sleeve top to make up for all the length I cut off the shoulder. Not sure how much I took off the shoulder and added to the sleeve. I just started hacking like you sometimes do. I did plan on adding 4″ to the bottom of the cardigan but I didn’t have enough for the facings when I got to cutting them. I was about 2″ short. I’ll talk about how I dealt with this in a minute.

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Now that’s a happy shoulder seam. It’s right where it belongs. Moving the seam didn’t take away any of the swing of the cardigan. It’s sill roomy and doesn’t feel constricting at the arms.

Since the facings were short (because of my lack of fabric) and on my first Saunio, I was a little annoyed by all the overlapping fabric in this area. I needed to create a solution. I stitched the edge of the facing bottom to the bottom of the front piece.  This created almost a tube in this area.  It also made a hole where the facing and the front were not connected on the left side of this pic between the bottom of the cardigan and the edge.  I flipped to the inside of the facing and front piece and stitched the seam allowance. This closed up the hole and made it where I didn’t lose length just created a large hem at the bottom.  The only thing encased in there is the seam allowance.  There’s no bulk. I stitched all along the bottom to secure the facing and created my hem.

As I mentioned before, I did add 4″ of length but after my upturn at the bottom it equates to about half of that.  I’m okay with it.  I really like the width from the stitch line to the bottom of the cardigan.  Happy accident.

The bottom hem is 2″.  The one on the sleeve is 5/8″.  Majorly different but worked for each area. On my last one, I know I turned under quite a bit more on the sleeve. I liked where this sleeve hit with the small fold so no point in adding more.

I think this has potential to have a closure at the waist.  What do you think?  Not on this one because I like it as is, but if I do the pattern again.  I like the way the front flap fell when I was playing around with it while taking pictures.  I think a big button or a frog closure could be interesting. Or it could be simple and I can make a belt which a lot of people did when they made this for February’s #sewmystyle. Maybe even work ties into the side seams. That way the belt is always with the sweater.

The original pattern has a slight curve from the neck down to the tip of the sweater front. I decided to straighten out the line on this.  I didn’t really understand why it was curved and a straight line is easier to sew!

Definitely love this one more than the purple one. The purple color is fantastic but I keep looking at those damn shoulder seams.  The fabric for this one is super soft and light enough for the office to keep me warm when they have the a/c turned to arctic. I’m way happier with this pattern now!

Same but Different

I don’t know if you’ve heard but Colette has come out with a new and improved Sorbetto pattern. Say what!?! I love Sorbettos. I’ve made 7 of them now. Check them out… one, two, three, four, five, six, and seven. The team listened to everyone’s issues with the pattern and out popped the new Sorbetto.  There’s three versions of the pattern; the classic tank style, tunic, and short sleeved version.  Since I’ve made so many of the tank top style I knew I would pick either the tunic or short sleeve.  I ultimately went with the sleeved version.  It’s cute enough for work and casual enough for a day off.

Here’s a quick look at the old pattern with *new* version 3 of the pattern. The top paper is the size 8.  I always make a size 8 in this pattern and grade out by about 1″ at the bottom to accommodate my bottom. The larger pattern is the new version.  You can see it’s longer.  I’m not sure if this is only for the sleeved version or the tank top too.  It’s also wider.  This is a size 6 graded to a size 8 at the bottom.  In other words, check your finished garment sizes before cutting! The neckline is pulled in tighter, which I’m happy about because I always thought it was way too wide.  The bust dart is lower.  I didn’t realize until after I cut the pattern and sewed in the bust darts and tried it on.  It ended up being about 1″-1 1/2″ too low.  I never thought my lady parts to be high on the landscape known as my chest but I guess they are? I do know this has been a complaint by a lot of people that have made this pattern in the past but it always suited me. The shoulder, of course, is wider on this one because I’m doing the one with sleeves. I would assume if you were doing the classic version it would be about the same as the original.

Recently, Rachel from Sew RED-y did flat felled seams on her Grainville shirt and because I’m a big copy cat of her, I decided to give it a go on this.  You can see on the pic above the left is the outside seams and the right is the inside. Not too shabby for my first go.  I followed the instructions from Colette for the process.

Here’s a good shot of my flat felled seam and my bias tape.  Self-made of course!  I’m really getting the hang of it! There was a few spots that it felt really thick and I had to slow down to push through all the layers of seam and bias tape.

Kind of looks like hospital scrubs doesn’t it?  I think it’s the fabric.  It was a cotton that I had in my stash.  Still trying to shop my stash for any projects I’m working on.  Look at that length!  Faboo!

You can see it’s still pretty roomy for being a size 6-8.  Since it’s cotton it doesn’t give and I would worry if I went down another size I wouldn’t be able to get it on!

My bust darts are not pressed as well as they could be.  Sorry!  You can deal with that right?  They sit right on my bust.  I had to redo them 3 times to get them right.  I gave up on the markings on the new one and got out the original pattern because I knew they would hit me right.

I did realize after I finished there will be no celebrations in this shirt.  I can’t lift my arms all the way up!  I can move them forward and back but not up very well.  I guess it would be better in a knit and then you could have the stretch to move but I’m not really sure what’s up with that.  Ideas?

This is it… This is the new Sorbetto.  How do I feel about it?  I don’t really like it.  I prefer the original.  Granted I modified the hell out of it, but it worked.  I love it!  I do like the tighter neckline of this one but the super low bust dart really pissed me off.  I think I’ll continue using the original or maybe a mix of the two for the tighter neck line and length.  Who knows?  For now, I can say the teal color is super happy and it’s a easy shirt to knock out in an evening, as long as you don’t have to rip the bust darts out multiple times.

Creepy McCreeper

Some of my best makes start off with a story. This is me warning you I’m about to tell you a story.

I was having a creepy day at work. No one was giving me side eye or following me around. No no, it was me! Complimenting co-workers on their amazing biceps in a way you think is not creepy but after it escapes your mouth everyone else thinks you’re creepy.


Yup, that’s me! *waives hand* Hiiiiiii, I’m creepy. One of the fun things about being a sewist is creeping on what people wear. When you see someone wearing something you like, sometimes you want to copy it. Even if she’s located in the cube right next to you and there’s a possibility that you may end up twinning one day. Yay twins!

What does this story mean for you? It means a new make from me! The inspiration shirt was a raglan shirt with  floral sleeves and a rounded hem. The body of the shirt was charcoal grey. My immediate thought was of my leftover floral fabric I have from my first toaster sweater.


I purchased grey hacci fabric from Stylish Fabric that was supposed to be a thick sweater knit that I wanted to make into an awesome pullover sweater comfy sweatshirt kind of thing. Again, I was misled by an online fabric store. Seriously, I need to start ordering swatches!

How am I replicating this shirt? Sew House 7’s Toaster Sweater pattern of course! I usedthe pattern piece that I created when I made my first Toaster Sweater. Which incorporated the raglan sleeves and split hem.

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This one has the raglan sleeves, crew neck and longer length. Which is a mix of sweater 1 and 2. I shortened the length of the sleeves to 3/4 and created a round hem by using a pattern piece from B5526.

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The grey fabric loves to curl at the ends. I tried to get the fabric to lay flat. I serged the edge and turned it over and stitched. I did it once more and the edge looks nice but still wants to turn.

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I did a couple different colors when I was topstitching. The grey areas, I used a black thread. For the floral areas, I used cream. You can see it the best along the neck line.

I did go a size down to a small. It’s still roomy and comfy.  You can tell when I stand scarecrow style. It looks fine when I stand normal though. The grey is a bit see through. When I wear this to work it does require another shirt beneath it.

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It turned out so similar to her RTW shirt. Hers is a tunic length but everything else is a match. I don’t have a pic of her shirt but what do you need that for? Mine is awesome enough for the both of us! I have named it my Lyndy Shirt in her honor.

Pirple Blurple

I’m well on my way to working through my 2017 make nine. I completed pajamas, Jamie Jeans (even though they sucked), Simone dress and now one of my favorite patterns, B5526. That makes 4 out of 9 and with it being early March, I shouldn’t be scrambling to finish my list on December 31. I’m feeling optimistic people!

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I completed my Jack of All Trades shirt last year and I wear it so often. It’s easy to wear with jeans and it’s a quick go to. I knew I wanted to make another and I had bought an gradient cotton from Fabric.com that I was planning on using for one of my other favorite tops, a Sorbetto. For whatever reason, I changed my mind on its use. The fabric has a gradient of pink to almost a bluish purple.  I figured it would look best if the gradient went from top to bottom compared to left and right.

I had 1 yard to work with, which would be just fine for a Sorbetto but not B5526. I sat with the fabric and two pattern pieces for quite sometime. I turned the fabric and patterns this way and that. The fabric wasn’t big enough. I needed a new plan. If I cut the pieces without the proper width at the sides, I should have enough to squeak out panels to add to the sides. This also leaves enough for the collar and front placket. No little sleeves though but that’s okay.

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Ideally, I wanted the placket to blend in on the front but with the minimal fabric, that wasn’t an option. I was worried that since I was going to have a dark placket it was going to look like a pieced together turd of a shirt.  I forged on anyways.  If it looks bad, it will still be comfortable and it can be a weekend top. I picked a dark piece for the collar too.  I was hoping if both pieces matched it would look intentional on the bright pink. I did have an oopsy with the placket.  I followed the same instructions (IndieSew) I did on the Jack shirt.  Somehow my placket was not straight across at the bottom.  It was more of a 45 degree angle.  I did fix it but now I have a bit of a puckering, bubble type deal going on.  It’s not super terrible so if I can ignore it, I believer the rest of the world can too. I added a little snap to the placket to keep the ladies from trying to put on a show. You may ask why I just don’t make a shorter placket. Well, I think I have a big head or something because I need that snap undone to pop this guy on.

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Blur alert!  My blue chair is perfectly in focus. Because that’s what’s important. *eye roll*

I tried to use the same tone for both the panels on the sides so they matched. They ended up being 3 1/2″ wide by about 17 1/2″.  I stitched them in place and added a bit of top-stitching to keep everything flush inside the shirt.

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I recently purchased a Clover Bias Tape Maker.  Oh man!  I don’t know how I had the patience to make my own bias tape prior to having this little gadget.  I’m in love. The gadget + continuous bias tape making tutorial (Collete) makes me all kinds of giddy. I did make the bias tape purple. It does not match the purple on the shirt but in my heart they go together.  I used it around the arms and at the bottom of the shirt.  I had one arm done and popped on the shirt to make sure everything was sitting fine.

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Check out the Pirple Blurpleness.

The arm hole was a bit big.  You could see my bra under my arm and the straps at the back.  Well shit… Clever girl that I am, I added a bust dart.  I didn’t need it for shaping but it did take 1 1/4″ off the arm.  It worked like a charm. Always making it work!


I think it turned out pretty decent. The dark collar and placket were totally not a big deal. I don’t normally do sleeveless shirts like this style but I think it works.  I need to lift weights a bit more so I have something a little more worthy to have lost my sleeves for.