knit

McPattern Dress

After my success with my first McPattern, how could I stop myself from making another? I wanted to make a big circle tank dress. I started off similar to my tank McPattern. It took a bit to figure out how tight I wanted the dress to my neck and how wide to make the straps. I did the same arc to figure out the curve on the bottom of the dress.


I sewed up the neck and shoulders of the dress first. Immediately I knew I was wrong. The straps were much farther from my neck and the neck scooped to low. I pulled the straps up and pinned them up to where the neckline hit my neck. I used chalk to mark a new line from the outer strap width down into the arm.

After my adjustments, I finished the neckline, arms and sides. It fit so much better! The problem I had now was the extra length I pulled up to move up the neckline made the dress short! Too short!


To remedy this issue, I picked up lace to trim the edge. That did it! It was light enough to keep the float of the rest of the fabric. I sergered the lace to the bottom and topstitched the edge for a clean finish.


This is ridiculously comfortable and surprisingly flattering. I’ve realized that anything with a lot of fabric at the bottom needs to be balanced with a more fitted top otherwise I end up looking like a potato.

BONUS:


I made another McPattern tank. This time in a knit! This was the last little bits of my $5 for 5 yds of grey fabric from Walmart. I made a maxi, dress and tank. There’s a few small pieces left that I would need to mix with something else to make anything. Talk about a deal!

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I did topstitch both sides of the straps which I didn’t on the others. I felt that if I didn’t, the strap wouldn’t stay nice and flat.

Up next, I’m back to project: #sewmystyle!

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Retro Knit

One of the deals I made with myself this year is that I need to stash bust more. This shirt plays right into that. I had quite a bit of fabric leftover from my Bridgetown Dress. Which on a side note, I’ve started buying less fabric and defying the envelope suggestions. Anywhere between 1/4 – 1/2 yard less.  I did this on my last two #sewmystyle projects and I lived to tell the tale. Maybe it’ll keep my stash from growing!

What did I make with my scrap fabric? Simplicity 1365 a vintage halter top pattern. I’ve made the pattern once before with a cotton yellow gingham. I didn’t make it as shown which is pretty typical of me with all patterns anymore. I knew I didn’t want a buttoned up back and didn’t have enough for ties to go around the neck. I also did not line the bust because it was completely unnecessary.

I cut the bodice pieces longer because the top is meant to stop at your hips. No crop tops, please and thank you! I negated the area for overlap in the back since I wasn’t going to need the button-up bit. I do have to say the bust pieces are so much easier to put together when you don’t have to line everything. So how do you keep the whole thing up since I wasn’t including the tie-straps?

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I made one long strap. This guy had to go around my neck, under my arms and meet in the back. On top of that, it had to have the right amount of stretch. Too little the whole thing looks stretched out and too much, I’m putting on a show for everyone around town. I believe it was at this point that I realized I had made a mistake.  The back bodice piece was not supposed to have the strap across the stop.  It’s actually supposed to start under the arm.  I wasn’t paying attention to the instructions because I was doing my own thing.  Oh well…

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I did add a bit of clear elastic across the back just to make sure there was a tight stretch there. I didn’t want my bra to pop out randomly. I have a thing about undergarments saying “hello” when they’re meant to be hidden. I get ladies like to wear bras as outer wear but that’s a different situation. The bra is meant to be out on display. Randomly playing peekaboo out the back of my shirt…uhhh no.

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Looks sort of like a a retro swim suit right? Not that I ever go swimming but I can totally see how easy this pattern would be to adjust.

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It was something quick and easy to make with a bit of fabric.  Now it’s time to see what good use I can put the rest of my fabric to.

Orla

Instagram brings a lot of things to my attention.  The two latest are the free download of The Orla Dress by French Navy Patterns which has a dress challenge and the maxi sewalong both for the month of July.  I was planning on making a maxi dress with the ridiculous amount of fabric I scored for $7.50 from Walmart. (15 yards of knits) Maxi fabric check! The Orla Dress happened to be what I was envisioning for my maxi. Dress pattern check! The sewing gods are encouraging.

The Olra dress is designed as a short sleeved, knee skimming dress. It has darts in the front and back, gathered waist and zip up the center back. The dress challenge does encourage you to “hack” the dress pattern. (BTW, totally hate that word “hack”. It makes me think of spitting a giant ball of phlegm.) I’m not scared about changing up a pattern so no problem! I decided to lengthen the sleeves, omit the zip, change knee-skimming to maxi, add pockets and tighten up the neckline.


As I was cutting my fabric I re-worked 1 pattern piece in particular. The front piece of the pattern was too wide at the shoulders. As I mentioned, I was going to tighten the neckline. It’s a lower scoop neckline and I wanted more of a t-shirt style. I raised the front by 1″ and redrew the curve. I also had to move in the shoulders. I honestly can’t remembered how much I took it in but it was a lot. The pattern piece looks a bit like Frankenstein now. I did taper both bodice pieces (front & back) by a bit toward the waist to make it more fitted.


When I was sewing the bodice I had a bit of an issue with the darts. I’ve never sewn darts coming up from the waist like this. I wasn’t sure where they were supposed to stop and should they look like they are at the center of my boobs or what? I winged it. I had to do the first one a few times before it looked right. I moved them both more towards the center compared to what was on the original but I guess that makes sense considering all the damage I did to the original piece. What was nice about this bodice is that I didn’t have to shorten or lengthen it!


I added clear elastic into the waist. It’s a lot of fabric that needs to be gathered and I wanted to make sure it wouldn’t stretch out and lose its shape. Plus it nips it in just a tidbit. 



What you end up with is a boring, grey maxi. And I love it! I don’t normally make plain Jane kind of stuff. I love prints but having something boring that I can accessorize is a nice change.

You can check out more about the Orla Dress Month Challenge and Maxi Sewalong by clicking the images below.orlamonthbanner

In a Jiffy

Disclaimer: I’m using a new photo editing software. If my pics are funny colors, I apologize. We’re still getting to know each other.

I know repeatedly I’ve said that I’m stash busting this year. My goal was to only buy fabric for the #sewmystyle projects.  I did so good until a few weeks ago. I needed denim for flares that are listed on my #2017makenine. I may have bought a bit of other fabric while I was at it.  One of those fabric was a blue sweater knit. I needed a plain blue top to go with a skirt I made a few years back. (unclogged and my first sew on my serger) I have a long sleeve sweater but it’s not appropriate for summer.

I decided to revisit a pattern that created a fail in a previous life. Simplicity 1364 which is a vintage Jiffy pattern. I did a lot of measuring before deciding on make a size 10 and grade to a 12. I really should have made an 8 and grade to a 10. That’s pretty typical for me. I’ll explain why in a bit.

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When they advertise “jiffy” damn do they mean it! It has a front, back and facing for the neck.  There are a couple darts on the front but other than that I used my serger for everything. When you can park in front of one machine, everything goes so fast! Granted there was some top stitching. Not sure if that was part of the instructions or not. I didn’t actually read them at all. When you have three whole pieces, are instructions really necessary? I believe not!

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As I mentioned, I cut a 10. I shouldn’t have. The knit is forgiving so I could afford to go smaller. And honestly, if I would have flashed back to my previous version, I would have remember that it’s huge on me. Oh well. I ran the top through the serger to shave off the sides a bit more. I also added a small band at the bottom. I didn’t want the bottom to continuously try to roll up which light weight knits tend to want to do. I cut a 3″ wide rectangle the length of the shirt’s bottom circumference. I folded that guy in a half and sergered it on. I did topstitch the sewn edge to the body of the top. I’m determined that there shall be no roll! After trying it on with my skirt, I could have left off the band and turned up some of the length. It does seem a little long.

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I think it turned out well. The neckline is a boat neck and I prefer a crew style but whatever. It works! It’s plain and looks cute with my skirt. Everything I was aiming for.

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It also looks pretty good with jeans too.  I may need to make more of these.  Pieces that I can wear to work and still want to wear on the weekends are a must. That post went by in a Jiffy too.

Creepy McCreeper

Some of my best makes start off with a story. This is me warning you I’m about to tell you a story.

I was having a creepy day at work. No one was giving me side eye or following me around. No no, it was me! Complimenting co-workers on their amazing biceps in a way you think is not creepy but after it escapes your mouth everyone else thinks you’re creepy.


Yup, that’s me! *waives hand* Hiiiiiii, I’m creepy. One of the fun things about being a sewist is creeping on what people wear. When you see someone wearing something you like, sometimes you want to copy it. Even if she’s located in the cube right next to you and there’s a possibility that you may end up twinning one day. Yay twins!

What does this story mean for you? It means a new make from me! The inspiration shirt was a raglan shirt with  floral sleeves and a rounded hem. The body of the shirt was charcoal grey. My immediate thought was of my leftover floral fabric I have from my first toaster sweater.


I purchased grey hacci fabric from Stylish Fabric that was supposed to be a thick sweater knit that I wanted to make into an awesome pullover sweater comfy sweatshirt kind of thing. Again, I was misled by an online fabric store. Seriously, I need to start ordering swatches!

How am I replicating this shirt? Sew House 7’s Toaster Sweater pattern of course! I usedthe pattern piece that I created when I made my first Toaster Sweater. Which incorporated the raglan sleeves and split hem.

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This one has the raglan sleeves, crew neck and longer length. Which is a mix of sweater 1 and 2. I shortened the length of the sleeves to 3/4 and created a round hem by using a pattern piece from B5526.

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The grey fabric loves to curl at the ends. I tried to get the fabric to lay flat. I serged the edge and turned it over and stitched. I did it once more and the edge looks nice but still wants to turn.

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I did a couple different colors when I was topstitching. The grey areas, I used a black thread. For the floral areas, I used cream. You can see it the best along the neck line.

I did go a size down to a small. It’s still roomy and comfy.  You can tell when I stand scarecrow style. It looks fine when I stand normal though. The grey is a bit see through. When I wear this to work it does require another shirt beneath it.

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It turned out so similar to her RTW shirt. Hers is a tunic length but everything else is a match. I don’t have a pic of her shirt but what do you need that for? Mine is awesome enough for the both of us! I have named it my Lyndy Shirt in her honor.