These pants were a long time coming! 1) procrastination got the best of me 2) there were a few other projects I wanted to do aka avoid making my first pair of pants 3) I didn’t know what the hell I was doing. But I was so rewarded.
So I’m a bad little kid at heart and when I was raiding JoAnn’s red line fabric 50% off sale I looked for a palazzo pant pattern with no intention of buying it. Really what I was looking for was a little help. How much fabric am I going to need? How wide should the leg be at the bottom?
I found pay dirt! Couldn’t tell you about the pattern, who made it or any other details but you’ll find a quick tutorial below so deets on the pattern are not necessary. I made mental note of the yardage (2.5 yds), 33 3/4″ circumference and off I went. I bought some great rayon fabric. It’s bright, it’s flowy, and it screams HELLO! I was instantly excited.
Let the pants making process commence! I used a big roll of paper, a pair of jeans, yardstick and a pencil to make my pattern. I made sure to grab a long pair of jeans because I want to wear heels with the pants. Fold the pants in half at the crotch area and lay it in the middle of your paper. Trace around the pants.
I found the center of the leg at the bottom and made a mark 16 7/8″ to both the left and right. This gave the 33 3/4″ width at the bottom of the pant leg. Make a line connecting all three marks.
From the butt and crotch, extend a line down to the new pant leg width. This is a quarter of your pants with no seam allowance. I added 5/8″ marks all around the pants, and connected the dots. Insta-seam allowance!
The waistband of the pants I did separately. You need two pieces of fabric the width of your elastic (I used 2″) plus 1 1/4″ for seam allowance on each side. The length is your hips plus the 1 1/4″. Gotta be able to get the pants up over your behind ya know?
Down to cutting… Take your fabric fold in half width wise and then length wise. One long side should have two folded edges the other long side should have 4 layers. Put the butt side of your pattern along the folded edge. Pin it down or however your normally tackle a pattern piece. Carefully cut it out. You should have two pieces.
Sew up the inseam on both.
Flip one pair right side out. Put the right side leg into the wrong side and sew together the crotch.
Take the two waist pieces and sew them together along the length. Sew the width together to create a loop.
I sewed the elastic to the waistband so the elastic didn’t move about. For this you have to stretch the elastic as you sew.
Attach the waistband to the pants. I sewed the right sides together for the outside then hand stitched the inside down. You can stitch in the ditch but it never comes out looking nice for me.
Lastly, hem the pants. I sergered the edge, folded over twice and top stitched. I didn’t have to finagle with the length because the pants I used were the perfect length.
One adjustment I did make to all this was, I added two front darts to the pants. I was getting this saggy crotch thing from too much fabric gathering. I also took some length out of the waistband otherwise the two pieces wouldn’t have matched up.
Look at the awesome width to the legs. It nice because the flare starts from the waist so the only fitting you really have to do is to the waist.
See no butt hugging. Rayon soft and flowy drape.
I think that is the “Are you getting this?” face.