Tank

McPattern

Originally was going to name this post MC Pattern for Mac’s Crafts but isn’t McPattern so much better? A little Irish and a little bit awful food chain.

A natural progression in sewing with patterns is creating your own right? I’m starting off quite simple.  A tank top.  Not too difficult. I’ve been seeing the Ogden Cami everywhere.  While I do like it, I wanted something super swingy.  Almost like a circle skirt but a top. I also wanted it to be a razor back. I think I was a tidbit influenced by my love of my Simone dresses/top.

It took me quite a while to draft the pattern.  I started with the Sorbetto by Colette. I know the top fits me well and the bust darts sit right on my body.  I copied the lines around the arm and up to the top of the shoulder. From there it was wild! I created curve after curve trying to find the right point on the front to swing the arc.  I wanted the bottom to end up being straight across.

I did make a quick muslin of the front out of an old t-shirt to check the darts and make sure I didn’t make the front too low/high.  When I decided I was happy I took a deep breath and cut my fabric. I’ve bought something similar before and loved it. It’s from Fabric.com and it’s concerned a workwear fabric. I believe it’s meant to be for a work shirt uniform type deal.  I like it because I don’t need to iron it and it looks great!


I totally went all out with this shirt too.  I did French seams along the sides.  Pain in my ass.  I don’t care what fabric you use, but it looks soooo pretty.


I made a ton of bias tape.  The tape went across the top of the front and back. It also created the straps.  I cut 2” wide strips of fabric for these.  I wanted to make sure they were decently beefy but not too beefy.


I made smaller width tape to go along the bottom of the shirt. Have you ever applied bias tape the French way? It’s easier. I read a post about it somewhere so I thought I would give it a go.  Pretty much you fold the bias tape in half once.  Sew that shit on the edge. Fold it one more time and top stitch around.  That’s it.


I’m super happy with this shirt.  There is one little point in the straps that is a little wonky.  It’s where the strap starts to curve around the front. It’s too much of a curve that it starts to buckle.  You have to look really hard to see it though.  I’m sure it’s an easy adjustment to the pattern.  Move the points out more to create a gentler curve. I’m wondering if the black is helping to hide the mistake.


Side shot with my snuggle baby Frankie. I was concerned about my shirt looking a bit maternity-like but it doesn’t billow out too terribly.


There’s a lot of fabric to this shirt. It makes it so light and breezy.


I loved the black one so much I made it in orange too. The fabric weight is different. It’s heavier and has much less drape. It’s is much more voluminous. I think next I’d like to try it in a knit.


Oh and just like a circle skirt.  This bad boy twirls too! Yippee! Angry twirl face. The orange fabric was not having it was well as the black.


Feeling quite accomplished with my first garment pattern. I’ll keep making a lot more of these. It’s an awesome simple wardrobe staple.  Plus it keeps me extra satisfaction knowing I made the pattern.

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Sorbetto Explosion!

This will be a long post. It contains five Colette Sorbettos. YES FIVE! I’m a mad woman. Someone cue the music and the cackling shall commence.

Let’s start with the first of many. I’ve been wanting to make a Sorbetto dress for a while. I bought a rayon fabric (surprising right?) from SAS Fabrics. I thought about this dress a lot. A simple tank dress would be too simple. I wanted pockets but not in-seam pockets. I love the pockets on the Farrow dress. Diagonal and big! I decided I was going to make diagonal single welt pockets. Have I ever made single welt pockets? Nope! I’m feeling fearless people!


The pattern is for a top so lots of extending had to happen and widening. Excessive widening to accommodate the tush! I looked up several tutorials on single welts but I could not even say what one I used because I kind of winged it in the end. No pattern pieces or anything! Reckless I tell you! After I was finished with them, they looked glorious but sad.


Since rayon is so light weight they drooped. To make it work, I added little tabs and buttons. That added more weight that makes for even more sag but I was ready. I added snaps! Sag no more little pockets.
Left over fabric from my disastrous Pocket Skirt was used as bias tape and a small band on the bottom. The band was only added because the dress still felt boring I think it looks like a muumuu. It’s super comfy and I can fill the pockets with all kinds of stuff! I forgive the dress’s weirdness because of its usefulness. Is that a strange reason?

The next four were super fast. My bestie’s bday was coming up and I wanted to make her a shirt from one of my fav patterns. The stars aligned and the Sorbetto was chosen. I picked up some fabric at Jo-Ann’s. Wonder Woman, Batgirl and Supergirl fabric was a perfect find. Then Hubby spotted an excellent fabric… it was pink and covered in llamas! I bought both fabrics. One for me and one for her. Totally not the plan but I couldn’t help myself. Llamas! I freaking love llamas!
I did my typical changes to the pattern. Extend the length, curved the hem, remove the pleat and flare out the sides 1″ at the bottom creating an a-line style. By the way, this is the old Sorbetto pattern.  I’m not a fan of the new one.


The bestie has the same chest measurements so it made this so easy. Girl Super Power!
I did finish the edges a bit different than I have before. I used a strip of fabric around the neckline and topstitched. The arms and hem were folded over once and stitched. I even broke out the walking foot on Katherine. It was my first time using it! It’s so awesome! It kept the knits from stretching as I sewed.

Now you’re asking yourself where’s 4 & 5 because you can clearly count and we’ve only gotten to 3. We started out lengthening the Sorbetto so why not end this post by shortening it?


I had just enough fabric to squeeze out two crop tops. One in llamas for bestie and one in super fabric for me. But Jamie you say, you hate anything cropped. I know! But…I can wear it as workout wear or around the house or as sleepy wear. This I find acceptable.

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To figure out the proper length, I cut them as long as I could with the little fabric I had.  Then I popped them on and cut to the length needed.

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The interesting bit about these is that they are so not wide enough.  Luckily the fabric stretches and the tops ended up looking like a razor back. Great for workout wear!

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I did finish the arms and neck the same way on these. With the extra fabric and a bit of top stitching.  I did add a bit of elastic on the bottom of the llamas because it didn’t have the same snap that the super heroes fabric did.  It was flaring out weird making it so not cute.

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That’s all of them guys! 5 Sorbettos in just a few weeks. I’m not sure how many Sorbettos this brings me up to but it’s a lot.  I can’t help myself. When I can’t figure out what to do with a bit of fabric my first thought is Sorbetto.  Do you have any patterns that you obsess over?

Butterfly Tank Tutorial

I made this shirt about a month ago.  I’ve been meaning to get a tutorial together for it but well… I’ve been lazy.  I’ve also been working on other projects.  Like the mash-up from last week.  I created this shirt after buying one similar from a consignment shop.  I liked the consignment shirt but thought I could do a bit better.  Like the back was awkward and you couldn’t wear a normal or razorback bra with it. It had to be a strapless bra and those damn things don’t stay put. Here’s the finished product.
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Couple of the front…
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And one of the back. Since the back goes from shoulder to shoulder it’s regular bra comfort all day. The fabric is a kind of heavy polyester. It makes the top a little stiff but it keeps the tie in place so I’m happy. Fussy is not pretty.
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I took the measurements straight from the other shirt and added in the seam allowance of 5/8″. I typically wear a medium shirt. Depending on your personal size or how long you want the shirt, you’ll need to adjust the numbers.

It starts off with two rectangles for the front and back. Then one long strip for the tie. If you don’t have fabric long enough for the tie you can cut shorter pieces then sew them together to get the proper length.
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Once you get those three pieces cut, you need to add the arm hole area. I marked on my fabric the two measurements and then drew a gentle curve free hand style. Sew the two sides together.
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That’s all the cutting. Three pieces and a few cuts. Not too hard right? I hemmed the bottom of the shirt next. I knew the length would be right since the consignment shirt fit me well and I trusted my measurements that I took multiple times. Ya know the old adage measure twice, cut once? Well I’m crazy and measure three or four.

I used a serger on all my raw edges of fabric and I had the width on my machine set to 5/8″. When I ironed I folded it at the serger edge and folded once more ironing each time.
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Onward to the arms! Same type of deal here as the bottom but instead of folding twice I only did it once. Looking back I wish I would have folded over twice to make the arm holes just a touch larger. Again iron before you sew but you’re going to sew closer to the edge.
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This part might be the most difficult to explain. You’re going to fold the edge over and press. Fold it again at the 1 1/8″. Go ahead and sew up the back by top stitching straight across. Be sure you don’t sew the edges closed because the tie needs to snake through there. The front is different. There needs to be two button holes in the center about 1 1/2″ apart and 3/4″ tall. You’ll need to center them vertically as well in the 1 1/8″ section. After making your buttonholes sew that piece down like you did the back.
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Sewing the tie is easy. Sew a long tube, flip it right side out, press and top stitch. I made my ends pointy by folding in the ends before I top stitched them.
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Thread the tie through the buttonhole, around the back piece and up through the other buttonhole. If your tie is long enough you can tie it in a bow but I let my hang with a single tie.
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TADA! It’s awesome shirt time! Can you tell even I’m impressed with myself? lol
tada