sewmystyle

April: Project Sew My Style

I was really looking forward to the next installment for #sewmystyle. This month’s project is the Bridgetown Dress by Sew House 7. I had high hopes because I’m so tickled with the Toaster Sweater. I’ve made three renditions of that pattern. (one, two, three). Probably wouldn’t even guess that last one was a Toaster.

I spent quite a bit of time looking for the perfect fabric. I picked up a floral cotton jersey fabric from Girl Charlee. Originally I wanted a wide stripe fabric but couldn’t find one wide enough. Everything is around 1″ wide and I want about 3-4″. I was even contemplating solid color but I couldn’t decide what color. The floral caught my eye but I feel like it was a last resort. Enough of my whining about my fabric woes and indecisiveness.

I’m glad that Self Assembly Required had finished her dress before I started on mine. I noticed that the sleeve does not sit on the shoulder. Why!?! I just dealt with this issue with the Saunio Cardigan from February’s make. I knew I was going to fix this issue. I just needed to figure out how. As I pieced together the pdf, I realized that the “sleeve” piece was shaped like a football and meant to be folded in half. This really made my decision easy.


I took the football, found the center lengthwise, added 1″ and snipped.  Why add the 1″? This was going to be my hem on the sleeves. I cut this piece in half width wise and taped it to the front and back bodice piece overlapping by the 5/8″ seam allowance. Boo yah! Fixed you, silly sleeve!


Btw, totally not the only change I made. There’s one more that’s even better but you got to keep going to find out.


I was really worried about the whole backless part of the dress. I don’t run around without support for the ladies in public. I also don’t like the idea of my bra being on display. I figured I would make the crossover back, evaluate and the decide what I thought. Totally thought I was lining up the back pieces right and moved onto the skirt. When I went to attach the bodice to the skirt I realized the bodice was too big. I didn’t match up the notches to each other. I matched the notches to the tips of each side. Doh! Fixing that closed the back up more and guess what? It was the right width! Pays to read the instructions.

Onto the skirt. I did grade from a size 8 to 12 on the skirt. The bodice is a straight 8 but my behind needs some breathing room. I’m working with jersey and I knew it would stretch to accommodate but I didn’t want wonky flowers or so much stretch that the fabric becomes see through. Here’s where the best change I made comes into play. I added pockets.


Oh yeah! This dress totally needs them. Quick word of warning: It does add some bulk to the hip area. My fabric isn’t super thick so it didn’t create much of an issue. But guys! POCKETS! I used a pocket pattern piece off a skirt pattern I had. They were ridicuously huge when I attached them. I ended up cutting them down quite a bit. Now they’re perfect.


I couldn’t decide if I wanted to hem the dress at 2″ or 3″. I went with 2.5″ and called it a day.


I did stitch the back pieces together just above my bra so I don’t have a peekaboo situation.


That’s that! My April make is done for #sewmystyle. Who’s a happy girl? Me! I’m so happy I made the changes I did because I hate little annoyances. That purple Saunio Cardigan just drives me crazy. It’s also taught me to trust my instincts. Have you ever made something that you learned a lesson from?

Last note: I’m doing Me-Made-May for the 3rd year now.

I, Jamie of http://www.jamielmac.wordpress.com (IG: Jamie_L_Mac), sign up as a participant of Me-Made-May ’17. I endeavour to wear 1 jamie-made garment each day for the duration of May with at least 2 new garments made during the month.

All in the Cards

I can’t stop remaking patterns this year. I’ve made the Toaster Sweater from Sew House 7 three times (one, two, three) and now I’m on my second Saunio Cardigan by Named. Last time I made the pattern, I whined about the shoulder seam being too far down my little bony shoulder. The other annoyance was how far away the sweater sits away from my neck.

When cutting the pattern I added 1″ to the neckline. I shortened the shoulder piece so it wouldn’t droop down my shoulder. I had to extend the sleeve top to make up for all the length I cut off the shoulder. Not sure how much I took off the shoulder and added to the sleeve. I just started hacking like you sometimes do. I did plan on adding 4″ to the bottom of the cardigan but I didn’t have enough for the facings when I got to cutting them. I was about 2″ short. I’ll talk about how I dealt with this in a minute.

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Now that’s a happy shoulder seam. It’s right where it belongs. Moving the seam didn’t take away any of the swing of the cardigan. It’s sill roomy and doesn’t feel constricting at the arms.

Since the facings were short (because of my lack of fabric) and on my first Saunio, I was a little annoyed by all the overlapping fabric in this area. I needed to create a solution. I stitched the edge of the facing bottom to the bottom of the front piece.  This created almost a tube in this area.  It also made a hole where the facing and the front were not connected on the left side of this pic between the bottom of the cardigan and the edge.  I flipped to the inside of the facing and front piece and stitched the seam allowance. This closed up the hole and made it where I didn’t lose length just created a large hem at the bottom.  The only thing encased in there is the seam allowance.  There’s no bulk. I stitched all along the bottom to secure the facing and created my hem.

As I mentioned before, I did add 4″ of length but after my upturn at the bottom it equates to about half of that.  I’m okay with it.  I really like the width from the stitch line to the bottom of the cardigan.  Happy accident.

The bottom hem is 2″.  The one on the sleeve is 5/8″.  Majorly different but worked for each area. On my last one, I know I turned under quite a bit more on the sleeve. I liked where this sleeve hit with the small fold so no point in adding more.

I think this has potential to have a closure at the waist.  What do you think?  Not on this one because I like it as is, but if I do the pattern again.  I like the way the front flap fell when I was playing around with it while taking pictures.  I think a big button or a frog closure could be interesting. Or it could be simple and I can make a belt which a lot of people did when they made this for February’s #sewmystyle. Maybe even work ties into the side seams. That way the belt is always with the sweater.

The original pattern has a slight curve from the neck down to the tip of the sweater front. I decided to straighten out the line on this.  I didn’t really understand why it was curved and a straight line is easier to sew!

Definitely love this one more than the purple one. The purple color is fantastic but I keep looking at those damn shoulder seams.  The fabric for this one is super soft and light enough for the office to keep me warm when they have the a/c turned to arctic. I’m way happier with this pattern now!

January: Project Sew My Style


I announced in my New Years post that I’ve joined in on Project: Sew My Style. You can check out more about the year long sew along at Bluebird Fabrics.  Pretty much what it boils down to is 12 garments, 1 for each month, over the course of 2017.


January’s garment is the Toaster Sweater version 2 from Sew House Seven. The second version has a short funnel neck and split side hem. It’s also meant to be cropped.  I adjusted a few of the features on this sweater. I mixed version 1 and 2. Plus, I added length to the body. I ended up with a crew neck sweater with raglan sleeves.


The fabric I chose came from Girl Charlee (still available if you’re interested). It was my first time buying from them. The fabric is super soft and looks exactly like the pic. I’m sure I’ll buy from them again since I’m over the moon about this purchase. It’s a Hacci Sweater knit. It’s supposedly mid-weight. If it is, I figure light weight is tissue paper thin.


I added 1 1/2″ to the length of the shirt. I didn’t want a cropped sweater. I own a hot pink sweater that is the length this sweater is meant to be. Unfortunately, I just don’t wear it a lot and it’s hot pink! That tells you how much I’m not into the cropped length.  Love me some hot pink…


I have long arms (thanks mom!) so I desperately needed some more sleeve length. I added 4 1/2″. I was using the raglan sleeve pattern piece and it was intended to have a separate piece as a cuff. I didn’t want to create more pieces or break up the print so I opted for the version 2 sleeve finish. I’m a sucker for a raglan sleeve, not that you can really see it with all that print. I ended up drawing my own front and back pieces for the body and a sleeve extender segment to make it all come together.


I like how the bottom corners come together making them neat and tidy. I serged the edges and turned them up 1 1/8″ per the instructions.


The neck band is a rectangle 2 1/2″ wide folded in half. I couldn’t tell you the length. I think I started out at 18″ and kept shortening it until it would stretch a wee bit and lay flat. You’re supposed to topstitch the seams with a twin needle. The fabric is either two light or too open of a weave to hold the stitch right. I only topstitched on the side where the fabric overlapped.


Incredibly happy with the first make for Project: Sew My Style. If you want to check out everyone else, use #sewmystyle in any social media and you’ll find a ton of enthusiastic sewists… sewers…makers! Let’s go with that.

Next month is the Saunio Cardigan from Named. I’m having a bit of a problem finding fabric for this one.