Saunio Cardigan

All in the Cards

I can’t stop remaking patterns this year. I’ve made the Toaster Sweater from Sew House 7 three times (one, two, three) and now I’m on my second Saunio Cardigan by Named. Last time I made the pattern, I whined about the shoulder seam being too far down my little bony shoulder. The other annoyance was how far away the sweater sits away from my neck.

When cutting the pattern I added 1″ to the neckline. I shortened the shoulder piece so it wouldn’t droop down my shoulder. I had to extend the sleeve top to make up for all the length I cut off the shoulder. Not sure how much I took off the shoulder and added to the sleeve. I just started hacking like you sometimes do. I did plan on adding 4″ to the bottom of the cardigan but I didn’t have enough for the facings when I got to cutting them. I was about 2″ short. I’ll talk about how I dealt with this in a minute.

Now that’s a happy shoulder seam. It’s right where it belongs. Moving the seam didn’t take away any of the swing of the cardigan. It’s sill roomy and doesn’t feel constricting at the arms.

Since the facings were short (because of my lack of fabric) and on my first Saunio, I was a little annoyed by all the overlapping fabric in this area. I needed to create a solution. I stitched the edge of the facing bottom to the bottom of the front piece.  This created almost a tube in this area.  It also made a hole where the facing and the front were not connected on the left side of this pic between the bottom of the cardigan and the edge.  I flipped to the inside of the facing and front piece and stitched the seam allowance. This closed up the hole and made it where I didn’t lose length just created a large hem at the bottom.  The only thing encased in there is the seam allowance.  There’s no bulk. I stitched all along the bottom to secure the facing and created my hem.

As I mentioned before, I did add 4″ of length but after my upturn at the bottom it equates to about half of that.  I’m okay with it.  I really like the width from the stitch line to the bottom of the cardigan.  Happy accident.

The bottom hem is 2″.  The one on the sleeve is 5/8″.  Majorly different but worked for each area. On my last one, I know I turned under quite a bit more on the sleeve. I liked where this sleeve hit with the small fold so no point in adding more.

I think this has potential to have a closure at the waist.  What do you think?  Not on this one because I like it as is, but if I do the pattern again.  I like the way the front flap fell when I was playing around with it while taking pictures.  I think a big button or a frog closure could be interesting. Or it could be simple and I can make a belt which a lot of people did when they made this for February’s #sewmystyle. Maybe even work ties into the side seams. That way the belt is always with the sweater.

The original pattern has a slight curve from the neck down to the tip of the sweater front. I decided to straighten out the line on this.  I didn’t really understand why it was curved and a straight line is easier to sew!

Definitely love this one more than the purple one. The purple color is fantastic but I keep looking at those damn shoulder seams.  The fabric for this one is super soft and light enough for the office to keep me warm when they have the a/c turned to arctic. I’m way happier with this pattern now!

February: Project Sew My Style

We’re at month two of Project: Sew My Style.  February’s make is the Saunio Cardigan by Named. I think quite a few people have the same sentiment when it comes to this month’s make,”This is so not my style”. I love a good cardigan, but finding an acceptable heavy weight sweater knit fabric is near impossible and the dropped shoulder…uuggghhhhh… I detest a shoulder seam that does not sit at that bony little mass I consider my shoulder.

I searched high and low for a fabric I liked. I saved a few images and every time I went back to them I deleted them all. I gave up and decided my sweater had to be lightweight. I came across a great eggplant sweater knit at Stylish Fabric.  It says that it’s a thick Hacci fabric. Which means it’s a lightweight sweater knit. 

The cardigan has a short length and if you read my January Sew My Style post you’ll know I’m not a fan so I added 4″ to the bottom to the small size. I thought about making the neck area wider so it would come closer to the neck and straightening out the curve on the front pieces near the neck so it looks more like a waterfall. I did change my mind before cutting because I felt I owed it to the pattern to make it “as is” except for the length. I can’t do a shorty cardi.

One thing I despise about Named patterns is the overlap of the pattern pieces on the pdf. Fron past experiences with the pattern company, I knew to print out two copies of the pattern. If you traced the pattern, you wouldn’t need to print multiples and figure out the puzzle to have all pieces whole at the end of the ordeal. Taping together pdf patterns is already a chore, and I really would love it if Named figured out a better and faster way to print their patterns. With that off my chest, let’s push forward!

Cutting out the pieces went super fast. I used my serger for all the seams because little bits of knit were flying everywhere! Purple confetti people! The construction of the sleeves was a little different than I’m used to. Usually I sew the sleeve length then sew onto the completed bodice. This instructs to sew the sleeve piece on the bodice then sew the length of the entire side of the cardigan all the way to the end of the sleeve in one swoop.  This way was a little difficult to get the seam perfectly lined up under the arm.

This sweater was a nice quick sew. I finished it in one sitting which is rare for me. I did add a bit more top stitching. It’s a little hard to see in the picture.

I didn’t put interfacing on the front facing pieces. With the fabric being so light it would have shown through and it wouldn’t have a floppy, relaxed look.

Immediately when I put it on I really didn’t like the bulk it created between the facing and the front at the hem. I need to figure a way to deal with this for any future versions.

I’ve worn this sweater twice now. The first time I felt okay about it. The second time I felt better. It’s super comfy and the fabric is so soft but my eyes zero in on that dropped shoulder seam every time. I just have to not look in the mirror when I wear it. That’s possible right?

I’m not making the garment for March. I don’t wear leggings except to exercise or chill in my Tardis jammies. So next up for me will be April’s Sew House 7 Bridgetown Dress.