Partial Placket

Plain Jane

It’s UFO time! (UnFinished Object) I started this shirt almost a year and a half ago! I know this solely on the date that I started this post. I tend to write as I sew. This comes in handy in case I make adjustments to a pattern as I go because I won’t remember them as I go.

Let’s step back in time to the beginning of 2016…

This blue, kinda denim looking fabric came from my mom’s stash that she gave to me.  Yay free fabric!  I used my oldie but a goodie B5526.  I have the number memorized now.  I used to have to look it up. Ha!  This time I used a different version of the shirt that didn’t include the princess seams.  I plan on adding a partial pplacket to the shirt instead of a full button down. The change to cutting it out was to cut the front on the fold and not include the extra fabric for the button placket.  Well you shouldn’t, unlike what I did… But we’ll get to that disaster in a minute.

Everything was going great with sewing this shirt up.  Even found a great tutorial on how to create a cute little placket for the front from MellySews.  I made mine 11″.  Everything was constructed and ready to come together. Collar, sleeves, cuffs. Woo-hoo!  Moving along at full steam.  I started working on the collar.  That’s when things went wrong and I had to walk away.

Remember where I mentioned earlier that you should not include the extra fabric for the button placket.  Well I included some of it because I thought that it would make it a bit more roomy.  The shirt is not supposed to be fitted.  In adding that extra bit of fabric, I made the collar stand and collar not long enough.  Well shit…

Flash forward to now. Obviously I was more annoyed with this than I realized. Annoyed so much that I left this shirt in the bottom of a pile of fabric to be forgotten forever. When you clean your fabric stash it’s amazing the things you find! Yes, I hid it there. I think I meant for my future self to never find it.

Since I have found it, I needed to figure out what to do with this extra fabric I just had to add. I figured I needed to get rid of 1″ off each side of the placket. The cute placket I made, I decided I hated. I ripped it off. Totally ripped apart the cuffs I sewed to make the placket pieces. I cut out the extra fabric from the neck and tapered down to the bottom of the placket, which cut out two triangles of fabric. I added the placket that I know the best. I’ve used it on the other two popovers I’ve made (one, two).


I added the collar, which I decided to use only the stand. Yup, just like the other two.


Since I used the fabric for the cuffs on my placket, I needed to figure out something different for the sleeves. I always roll up my sleeves so it’s not necessary to have all that length. I kept just enough to roll the sleeves once or twice plus enough to make a “cuff”.


As I mentioned before, this is the third time making this exact shirt but three different sleeve lengths. Yeah for repeats!


Seriuosly! Same shirt! Curved hem at the bottom, roomy, partial placket and mandarin collar.


The length is awesome because it covers enough of my bottom standing and sitting. I freaking love these shirts. I could have a closet full of these. Oh, and B5526 is my favorite shirt pattern.


This version is a little plain compared to my other two and rather plain for me. I always prefer prints. It’s nice to change things up every once in a while right? But not too much, to stay on the safe side.

Pirple Blurple

I’m well on my way to working through my 2017 make nine. I completed pajamas, Jamie Jeans (even though they sucked), Simone dress and now one of my favorite patterns, B5526. That makes 4 out of 9 and with it being early March, I shouldn’t be scrambling to finish my list on December 31. I’m feeling optimistic people!

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I completed my Jack of All Trades shirt last year and I wear it so often. It’s easy to wear with jeans and it’s a quick go to. I knew I wanted to make another and I had bought an gradient cotton from Fabric.com that I was planning on using for one of my other favorite tops, a Sorbetto. For whatever reason, I changed my mind on its use. The fabric has a gradient of pink to almost a bluish purple.  I figured it would look best if the gradient went from top to bottom compared to left and right.

I had 1 yard to work with, which would be just fine for a Sorbetto but not B5526. I sat with the fabric and two pattern pieces for quite sometime. I turned the fabric and patterns this way and that. The fabric wasn’t big enough. I needed a new plan. If I cut the pieces without the proper width at the sides, I should have enough to squeak out panels to add to the sides. This also leaves enough for the collar and front placket. No little sleeves though but that’s okay.

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Ideally, I wanted the placket to blend in on the front but with the minimal fabric, that wasn’t an option. I was worried that since I was going to have a dark placket it was going to look like a pieced together turd of a shirt.  I forged on anyways.  If it looks bad, it will still be comfortable and it can be a weekend top. I picked a dark piece for the collar too.  I was hoping if both pieces matched it would look intentional on the bright pink. I did have an oopsy with the placket.  I followed the same instructions (IndieSew) I did on the Jack shirt.  Somehow my placket was not straight across at the bottom.  It was more of a 45 degree angle.  I did fix it but now I have a bit of a puckering, bubble type deal going on.  It’s not super terrible so if I can ignore it, I believer the rest of the world can too. I added a little snap to the placket to keep the ladies from trying to put on a show. You may ask why I just don’t make a shorter placket. Well, I think I have a big head or something because I need that snap undone to pop this guy on.

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Blur alert!  My blue chair is perfectly in focus. Because that’s what’s important. *eye roll*

I tried to use the same tone for both the panels on the sides so they matched. They ended up being 3 1/2″ wide by about 17 1/2″.  I stitched them in place and added a bit of top-stitching to keep everything flush inside the shirt.

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I recently purchased a Clover Bias Tape Maker.  Oh man!  I don’t know how I had the patience to make my own bias tape prior to having this little gadget.  I’m in love. The gadget + continuous bias tape making tutorial (Collete) makes me all kinds of giddy. I did make the bias tape purple. It does not match the purple on the shirt but in my heart they go together.  I used it around the arms and at the bottom of the shirt.  I had one arm done and popped on the shirt to make sure everything was sitting fine.

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Check out the Pirple Blurpleness.

The arm hole was a bit big.  You could see my bra under my arm and the straps at the back.  Well shit… Clever girl that I am, I added a bust dart.  I didn’t need it for shaping but it did take 1 1/4″ off the arm.  It worked like a charm. Always making it work!


I think it turned out pretty decent. The dark collar and placket were totally not a big deal. I don’t normally do sleeveless shirts like this style but I think it works.  I need to lift weights a bit more so I have something a little more worthy to have lost my sleeves for.