Flat fell seams

Same but Different

I don’t know if you’ve heard but Colette has come out with a new and improved Sorbetto pattern. Say what!?! I love Sorbettos. I’ve made 7 of them now. Check them out… one, two, three, four, five, six, and seven. The team listened to everyone’s issues with the pattern and out popped the new Sorbetto.  There’s three versions of the pattern; the classic tank style, tunic, and short sleeved version.  Since I’ve made so many of the tank top style I knew I would pick either the tunic or short sleeve.  I ultimately went with the sleeved version.  It’s cute enough for work and casual enough for a day off.

Here’s a quick look at the old pattern with *new* version 3 of the pattern. The top paper is the size 8.  I always make a size 8 in this pattern and grade out by about 1″ at the bottom to accommodate my bottom. The larger pattern is the new version.  You can see it’s longer.  I’m not sure if this is only for the sleeved version or the tank top too.  It’s also wider.  This is a size 6 graded to a size 8 at the bottom.  In other words, check your finished garment sizes before cutting! The neckline is pulled in tighter, which I’m happy about because I always thought it was way too wide.  The bust dart is lower.  I didn’t realize until after I cut the pattern and sewed in the bust darts and tried it on.  It ended up being about 1″-1 1/2″ too low.  I never thought my lady parts to be high on the landscape known as my chest but I guess they are? I do know this has been a complaint by a lot of people that have made this pattern in the past but it always suited me. The shoulder, of course, is wider on this one because I’m doing the one with sleeves. I would assume if you were doing the classic version it would be about the same as the original.

Recently, Rachel from Sew RED-y did flat felled seams on her Grainville shirt and because I’m a big copy cat of her, I decided to give it a go on this.  You can see on the pic above the left is the outside seams and the right is the inside. Not too shabby for my first go.  I followed the instructions from Colette for the process.

Here’s a good shot of my flat felled seam and my bias tape.  Self-made of course!  I’m really getting the hang of it! There was a few spots that it felt really thick and I had to slow down to push through all the layers of seam and bias tape.

Kind of looks like hospital scrubs doesn’t it?  I think it’s the fabric.  It was a cotton that I had in my stash.  Still trying to shop my stash for any projects I’m working on.  Look at that length!  Faboo!

You can see it’s still pretty roomy for being a size 6-8.  Since it’s cotton it doesn’t give and I would worry if I went down another size I wouldn’t be able to get it on!

My bust darts are not pressed as well as they could be.  Sorry!  You can deal with that right?  They sit right on my bust.  I had to redo them 3 times to get them right.  I gave up on the markings on the new one and got out the original pattern because I knew they would hit me right.

I did realize after I finished there will be no celebrations in this shirt.  I can’t lift my arms all the way up!  I can move them forward and back but not up very well.  I guess it would be better in a knit and then you could have the stretch to move but I’m not really sure what’s up with that.  Ideas?

This is it… This is the new Sorbetto.  How do I feel about it?  I don’t really like it.  I prefer the original.  Granted I modified the hell out of it, but it worked.  I love it!  I do like the tighter neckline of this one but the super low bust dart really pissed me off.  I think I’ll continue using the original or maybe a mix of the two for the tighter neck line and length.  Who knows?  For now, I can say the teal color is super happy and it’s a easy shirt to knock out in an evening, as long as you don’t have to rip the bust darts out multiple times.