I can’t stop remaking patterns this year. I’ve made the Toaster Sweater from Sew House 7 three times (one, two, three) and now I’m on my second Saunio Cardigan by Named. Last time I made the pattern, I whined about the shoulder seam being too far down my little bony shoulder. The other annoyance was how far away the sweater sits away from my neck.
When cutting the pattern I added 1″ to the neckline. I shortened the shoulder piece so it wouldn’t droop down my shoulder. I had to extend the sleeve top to make up for all the length I cut off the shoulder. Not sure how much I took off the shoulder and added to the sleeve. I just started hacking like you sometimes do. I did plan on adding 4″ to the bottom of the cardigan but I didn’t have enough for the facings when I got to cutting them. I was about 2″ short. I’ll talk about how I dealt with this in a minute.
Now that’s a happy shoulder seam. It’s right where it belongs. Moving the seam didn’t take away any of the swing of the cardigan. It’s sill roomy and doesn’t feel constricting at the arms.
Since the facings were short (because of my lack of fabric) and on my first Saunio, I was a little annoyed by all the overlapping fabric in this area. I needed to create a solution. I stitched the edge of the facing bottom to the bottom of the front piece. This created almost a tube in this area. It also made a hole where the facing and the front were not connected on the left side of this pic between the bottom of the cardigan and the edge. I flipped to the inside of the facing and front piece and stitched the seam allowance. This closed up the hole and made it where I didn’t lose length just created a large hem at the bottom. The only thing encased in there is the seam allowance. There’s no bulk. I stitched all along the bottom to secure the facing and created my hem.
As I mentioned before, I did add 4″ of length but after my upturn at the bottom it equates to about half of that. I’m okay with it. I really like the width from the stitch line to the bottom of the cardigan. Happy accident.
The bottom hem is 2″. The one on the sleeve is 5/8″. Majorly different but worked for each area. On my last one, I know I turned under quite a bit more on the sleeve. I liked where this sleeve hit with the small fold so no point in adding more.
I think this has potential to have a closure at the waist. What do you think? Not on this one because I like it as is, but if I do the pattern again. I like the way the front flap fell when I was playing around with it while taking pictures. I think a big button or a frog closure could be interesting. Or it could be simple and I can make a belt which a lot of people did when they made this for February’s #sewmystyle. Maybe even work ties into the side seams. That way the belt is always with the sweater.
The original pattern has a slight curve from the neck down to the tip of the sweater front. I decided to straighten out the line on this. I didn’t really understand why it was curved and a straight line is easier to sew!
Definitely love this one more than the purple one. The purple color is fantastic but I keep looking at those damn shoulder seams. The fabric for this one is super soft and light enough for the office to keep me warm when they have the a/c turned to arctic. I’m way happier with this pattern now!